EL SALVADOR: PHEONIX RISING

El Salvador, a country that has been somewhat synonymous with a sinister image of gangland violence, is emerging from its torrid past, riding a progressive wave of impactful change. Sophie Everard heads to the hub of El Salvador’s surfing heartland and discovers how a singular community’s tentacles of positive change are making palpable positive changes reaching far and wide.

El Salvador, nestled in the heart of Central America, has been somewhat overshadowed by its closest favoured surf-destination neighbours of Nicaragua, Mexico and Costa Rica. We’ve all heard of or even visited the aforementioned surfer’s favourites for decades now. But El Salvador? Though El Salvador had been blemished by a past awash with violence, violence has been dramatically decreasing, El Salvador’s newest President focussed on improving security and encouraging youth away from a path of crime. Only recently the ISA has selected El Sunzal, an incredible, never-ending point break in the neighbouring backpacker town of El Tunco, as the host for the 2020 ISA World Surfing Championships, a huge development for the country. Heading to the colourful surf-side community of El Zonte, an open mind and zero expectation of what to expect, El Salvador proved from the get go a country of extraordinary surprise and revelation.

El Zonte may not be well-known (yet), but this colourful, bare-foot bohemian-vibed village is home to one of El Salvador’s best point breaks, and a tight-knit community of welcoming locals and surfers. The unassuming coastline of the La Libertad region in El Salvador is peppered with world-class breaks including El Sunzal, El Zonte, K59, Mizata Point and Punta Roca, so you’re nearly spoilt for choice on the stunningly raw coastline where whales are commonly sighted. Surfing ‘til the pink-hued sunset turns to night and ushers you to shore, where a feast of local-favourite “pupusas” (tasty filled corn-breads) line surfed-out stomachs, El Zonte has a near primal, captivating magic about it, an authenticity that draws you in, bit by bit.

Making massive impact upon the wellbeing of their local community and farther afield, it is also a hive of positive action and change. Puro Surf in El Zonte, founded by holistic surf coach and entrepreneur Marcelo Castellanos, a “Performance Surf Academy and Hotel”, is the parent organisation to the not-for-profit Medusas Surf Program for young girls, Compartiendo Olas (“Sharing Waves”) day camps, and Glasswings International, a local charity that provides doctors in the town, sponsors school clubs and more. It’s Surf Academy, an impressive centre located on the grounds of the hotel, arguably takes surf coaching to a science. It’s onsite training facility with mirrored walls, video analysis centre, skate bowl with surf skates, and holistic training programme developed by Marcelo is centred around achieving the elusive “flow” of surfing. It’s clearly effective, as Marcello coach’s local hero, multiple National Champion & WQS surfer Bryan Perez, and Brazilian power-house, water-woman Aline Adisaka, a pro-surfer and SUP-surfer, amongst others.

I’m joining Puro for their Medusas (Jellyfish) Program, a weekly club for 4-14 year olds set-up to inspire local girls through workshops, meeting inspiring heroes, learning to care for the environment, and surf and sport lessons. Though Puro only opened 2 years ago, the social programme has in fact been in existence for 9 years, Marcelo founding Sharing Waves 9 years ago. “That was the beginning of everything, because I always liked to share a positive message, working with kids and the new generation.” Sharing Waves was designed for communities along the coast where resources are scarce and opportunities are limited, children and young adults taking part in fun and empowering surf lessons, team building activities and educational discussions, including environmental issues. “Developing surfing as a sport has been my mission. As an industry, you have to develop different things, it’s not just one part. The social element is one part you have to develop.”

“El Salvador, it’s a poor country. There’s a lot of need. And I grew up here surrounded by … (violence) so I always wanted to help, and to give the kids the opportunity to dream” ...”

adds Marcelo.

A steady stream of clearly stoked, happy children begin to filter into the Puro Surf Centre, hearty bowls of local “atol de elote” (a type of El Salvadorian porridge) fuelling them up pre-training session as they take a seat in the surf classroom. Also joining us today is Bryan Perez himself, Aline Adisaka and local surf-coach and athlete Nette Klement, the 3 inspiring athletes quickly integrating and playing with the kids.

Bryan Perez was in fact one of the early attendees of Marcello’s Sharing Waves programme, where Marcello trained the local kids for free every day. With Bryan making it as a pro, “he’s been an example to the kids. And that’s the vision. I can see the impact” Marcello begins. “He’s 27th in the world, that’s proof of what we’re doing. And now, he’s doing it now for other kids. Because that’s the idea. If I’m doing it for 10 kids, 20 kids, then those 20 kids do that for 20, so that’s how everything grows.” Medusas Program Manager Yazmin Labocain explains how the Medusas programme “empowers the girls to be whatever they want to be.”

“We want leaders in the communities, a new generation of surfers and independent girls. They can dream, and not just work in the house or have babies…they can be whatever that want to be.”

It’s heartening when Marcello, who leads the classroom session, asks the children, some as young as 4, if they have a dream, and excited hands shoot up, with answers including Flight Captains, Graphic Designers, and Pro-Surfers. “Surfing is a great thing, not just as a sport, as an industry. There’s a lot of opportunities. I always like to share that with young people and give them that vision, or open their eyes, to that world.” Marcello starts. “You don’t know how that can change their life, you don’t know if that’s the day they say yeah, I have a dream, and I’m going to work hard to make my dream come true.”.

The Medusas and Sharing Waves are making such an impact, they are noted by the Government for their work as an example of the critical importance of grassroots social activation projects. A changing of the tide in this once unstable, historic country, is unambiguous. It feels as if El Salvador is indeed emerging from its smoking shadows, and her people, full of heart and honesty, are powerfully working together to pour love and support into her heartlands. The transformative and empowering effects of inspiring children through surfing, healthy activity, dreaming big and caring for nature are palpable.

El Salvador, though was once renowned for a past of aggressive violence, is arguably now leading the charge in grassroots social activation, with its highly progressive, yet, simple strategy, which we could all sit up and take note of.